Pour into a casserole a quantity (about a pint) of good bichamel sauce (white stock), embody with it gradually, and always stirring, just as you do with the Hollandaise sauce, about £ lb. of good butter; finish with a good lump of crawfish or lobster butter, a few drops of anchovy essence, and a pinch of cayenne.
Sauce Soubise is a purie of white onions with white stock. Excellent with cutlets.
Pound the shells with all the fat and such meat as may have been left inside of them, and stew with a little butter. The rich fat or butter will rise very soon. I do not recommend your stewing these shells, as some authorities do. Gouffe says 1 hour. I think I get purer flavour by 5 to 10 minutes' stewing than by 1 hour.
" Rough and Ready " Sauces.-A very simple and toothsome sauce is very quickly procurable by frying a shallot with a little butter, adding a little meat glaze, a tablespoonful or two of water, and a little vinegar or a few drops of lemon juice. Excellent with veal cutlets. Another consists of tomatoes and shallots cut up and put into a stew-pan with a little butter and parsley and glaze. Pass through a sieve. No thickening required for either of these sauces if properly made.
Use no thickening for any sauce if you can possibly do without. It may give consistency, but rarely adds to the flavour of the sauce.
Whisk 1/2 lb. of butter with the yolks of 2 eggs, by degrees add a little salt, chopped tarragon, and a spoonful of vinegar.
I cannot leave the subject of sauces without referring to the more than frequent cases of failure of shrimp and lobster sauce. The reason of their pasty taste is that they are. alas, prepared too often with the vilest " drawn butter" instead of with good white stock, and that the shrimps and lobster are over-cooked. Good drawn butter, however, with the lobster or shrimps, just warmed and no more, will produce excellent results. I prefer not to flavour with anchovy in case of shrimp sauce; properly prepared it does not need any extra flavouring. Green lobster, again, makes a much better lobster sauce than the boiled lobster.