Although most of the recipes given in this volume are my own—with the exception of some classical French and foreign dishes—I really must give you one that my friend, Cavaliere Calderoni, very generously offered me for this cookery book. He is one of the great living exponents of the gastronomic art—and he not only mixes his sauces with art, but also mixes art with sauces. This is one of the ways he does veal chops, and I will give it to you in his own words—for he is a linguist, as well as a creator of beautiful food. It is called, in Italian, Arrostini Annegate, which, when properly pronounced, is as harmonious as the dish.

" Cut six nice veal chops with the kidney attached. Fix with skewers to ensure the chops keeping together.

" Put 2 ozs. of butter in a frying-pan with a sprig of rosemary. Add the chops, which should first be dipped in flour and seasoned. Cover the chops and allow to cook slowly. When nearly cooked add a glass of good white wine, e.g. sweet Orvieto, and allow to cook very gently. Remove the chops, and add a little butter to the sauce, stir vigorously, then pour over the chops. The chops go equally well with potatoes, spinach fried in butter, French beans, or peas".