At Aries, in the South of France, they have a very good way of dishing up a chicken saute. This recipe was given me by an innkeeper, whose Provençal accent and incessant explanatory gesticulation were a real delight. When he wished to show me how the chicken should be jointed, he seized hold of his very stout wife and proceeded to illustrate exactly how and where the bird should be dismembered. I was afraid lest, in his exuberant enthusiasm, he would get hold of a carving-knife and actually do so to the unfortunate woman. However, his recipe is very delicious and here it is, in plain English, and without explanatory gestures.


One chicken jointed in 8 or 10 pieces, tomato puree, slices of aubergines, or the hearts of artichokes, a few large, firm tomatoes, oil, garlic, salt and pepper.


Put a little oil in a deep and large frying-pan, and when boiling, add the pieces of chicken, highly seasoned with salt and pepper. Cook till slightly and evenly browned. Pour the oil away, leaving a very little only in the pan—a mere coating. Have ready a tomato puree, as in Aubergines d l'Italienne, page 68, and pour this in the pan, with a glass of dry white wine. Cook for a few minutes. Now pour this in an earthenware casserole, place the pieces of chicken in it, add 1 or 2 cloves of garlic, stir well and simmer very gently for about 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Place the pieces of chicken in the centre of a hot dish, pour the sauce over them, and garnish with alternate slices of either fried aubergines or the bottoms of artichokes and fried slices of tomatoes.