This section is from the book "Many Ways For Cooking Eggs", by Sarah Tyson Heston Rorer. Also available from Amazon: Many Ways For Cooking Eggs.
A plain French omelet is, perhaps, one of the most difficult of all things to make; that is, it is the most difficult to have well made in the ordinary private house. Failures come from beating the eggs until they are too light, or having the butter too hot, or cooking the omelet too long before serving.
In large families, where it is necessary to use a dozen eggs, two omelets will be better than one. A six egg omelet is quite easily handled. Do not use milk; it toughens the eggs and gives an unpleasant flavor to the omelet. An "omelet pan," a shallow frying pan, should be kept especially for omelets. Each time it is used rub until dry, but do not wash. Dust it with salt and rub it with brown paper until perfectly clean.
To make an omelet: First, put a tablespoonful of butter in the middle of the pan. Let it heat slowly. Break the eggs in a bowl, add a tablespoonful of water to each egg and give twelve good, vigorous beats. To each six eggs allow a saltspoonful of pepper, and, if you like, a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. Take the eggs, a limber knife and the salt to the stove. Draw the pan over the hottest part of the fire, turn in the eggs, and dust over a half teaspoonful of salt. Shake the pan so that the omelet moves and folds itself over each time you draw the pan towards you. Lift the edge of the omelet, allowing the thin, uncooked portion of the egg to run underneath. Shake again, until the omelet is "set." Have ready heated a platter, fold over the omelet and turn it out. Garnish with parsley, and send to the table.
If one can make a plain French omelet, it may be converted into many, many kinds.
Make a plain omelet from six eggs, have ready a half pint of cream sauce, and either a can or a bundle of cooked asparagus. Cut off the tips, preserving the lower portions for another dish. When the omelet is turned onto the heated platter, put the asparagus tips at the ends, cover them with cream sauce, pour the rest of the cream sauce in the platter, not over the omelet.
Make a six egg omelet. Have ready one pint of cooked peas, or a can of peas, seasoned with salt, pepper and butter. Just before folding the omelet put a tablespoonful of peas in the center, fold, and turn out on a heated platter. Pour the remaining quantity of peas around the omelet, and send at once to the table. If you like, you may pour over, also, a half pint of cream sauce.
Put two tablespoonfuls of butter and two chopped onions over hot water until the onion is soft and thoroughly cooked. Peel four tomatoes, cut them into halves and press out the seeds. Then cut each half into quarters, add four Spanish peppers cut in strips, a level teaspoonful of salt and a dash of red pepper. Cook until the tomato is soft.
Make a six egg omelet. Turn it onto a heated platter, put the tomato mixture at the ends, and send at once to the table.
Make a plain omelet with six eggs. Pour over a half pint of tomato sauce, and send to the table.
Drain, wash, and drain again twenty five oysters. Throw them into a hot saucepan and shake until the gills curl. Rub together two level tablespoonfuls of flour and two of butter. Drain the oysters, put the liquor into a half pint cup, add sufficient milk to fill the cup. Add this to the butter and flour. When boiling, add the oysters, a level teaspoonful of salt and a dash of red pepper. Make a six egg omelet, turn it onto a heated dish, arrange the oysters around the omelet, pour over the cream sauce, and send to the table.
This is a very good way to make sweetbreads do double duty. Boil a pair of sweetbreads until they are tender. Remove the membrane, cut them into slices; make a cream sauce. Add the sweetbreads, and, if you like, a half can of chopped mushrooms. Make a six egg omelet, arrange the slices of sweetbread around the omelet and pour over the cream sauce.
Beat six eggs. Add a half pint of rather thick stewed tomatoes, a level teaspoonful of salt and a saltspoonful of pepper. Beat the eggs and tomatoes together, and make precisely the same as a plain omelet. Do not, however, add water, as the tomatoes answer the purpose.
Mix a half cup of chopped ham with the eggs after they have been beaten with the water, and finish the same as a plain omelet.
Beat six eggs until they are thoroughly mixed. Add a half cupful of thick cream, four tablespoonfuls of grated cheese, a saltspoonful of black pepper and a half teaspoonful of salt. Mix and finish the same as plain omelet.
Beat six eggs until thoroughly mixed. Add a half cupful of cream, a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, a saltspoonful of pepper and a half teaspoonful of salt. Finish the same as a plain omelet. Serve on a heated platter and put over a little thin Spanish sauce.
Beat six eggs. Add six tablespoonfuls of water. Add a saltspoonful of pepper, a tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley, a teaspoonful of onion juice. Put six thin slices of bacon in the omelet pan. Cook slowly until all the fat is tried out. Remove the bacon, add a tablespoonful of chopped onion. Cook until the onion is slightly brown, turn in the eggs and finish the same as a plain omelet. Turn onto a heated platter, garnish with red and green peppers, and, if you like, put two tablespoonfuls of stewed tomatoes at each end of the omelet.
Chop sufficient chives to make a tablespoonful. Add a tablespoonful of parsley, a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion, and, if you have it, a little of the green tops of celery. Mix this with six eggs, add six tablespoonfuls of water and beat. Make the same as a plain omelet.
 
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