On the mistake of employing a French chef if you are not a good judge of cookery-On the well-trained Mary Jane.

It is not a wise plan for you to engage a superior class of cook, unless you be a good judge yourself. Ten to one he will not be amenable to your wishes, deeming his own judgment superior. He will run riot in all sorts of fancy dishes, des truffes truffees will pervade every meal, and he will treat you to high art in the shape of des pieces montees, such as you may see depicted in Gouffe. As a sample here is one: a classical vase, contents unknown, capped by a Roman, armour-clad torso (in paste, of course, from a mould ad hoc), the said torso flanked by truffles, pierced by swords or skewers. Unless it be the Cupid and horse-shoes (mentioned page 12) could bad taste go further than this? On the other band, your chef will be for neglecting his sauces, and may even degenerate to the extent of asking for "Peppershire" or other patent sauces, to save himself the trouble of preparing his sauces meres.

If you are wise you will be satisfied with a well-trained Mary Jane, not too old to be taught your own ideas and wishes, and you will make a point of going into your kitchen from time to time. I know many ladies do not venture to do so for fear of being turned out by the cook. All I have to say is, that kind of a cook ought to have five minutes' notice to leave the house.