In roasting as well as in grilling it is essential that the meat be exposed to a very fierce fire to begin with, in order to set the albumen which then forms a coat in which the juices remain unimpaired; no knife or fork ought to be put into the meat, because then the juice would escape. For testing steaks or chops a pair of light tongs may be used.

If the meat be spongy to the touch, it is not cooked enough, but as soon as it becomes firm, though not hard, it is done. I have already spoken of the charcoal stove as producing excellent results. It costs a trifle, and a few more shillings will procure a slight wrought-iron stand with rests at various heights, so the grill may be further away from the fire after the first exposure to a fierce heat. If you wish to well develop the flavour you must well brown your steak, chop, or cutlet, the well-cleaned grill, thoroughly heated, having first been rubbed with good butter or dripping, and with onion as well, provided you do not object to a suspicion of its flavour.

The tender-loin, or filet, is the tenderest, but the sirloin (entrecdte) furnishes the best flavoured steak. A tender rumpsteak, too, is a capital dish.

Steaks

Serve, only on sending to table, with a pat or two of maitre d'hdtel butter, placed on top of the steak. (Butter slightly mixed with twice-washed, finely-cut parsley and a few drops of lemon juice. Do not fatigue it by too much mixing.)

Cutlets should be cut from the best end of the neck and they should be thick. Trim neatly and serve on watercress with a lemon cut into 8 pieces. Some authorities say a few drops of lemon juice help the digestion of meat.

Veal is rarely good or tender in this country. If you must have veal cutlets, have them inch thick only after the Viennese style, and serve grilled with lemon or maitre d'hotel butter or with a sharp sauce of beef stock and pickled gherkins.