Frying being tabooed, you will readily discover other and excellent ways of preparing fish. Grilled, baked, or au gratin, or roasted as suggested by Sir Henry Thompson, or, if simply boiled, then served with plain melted butter and hashed parsley (not " drawn " butter), or with oil and lemon juice, or with a simple sauce verte (see page 68). Sir H. Thompson and Mr. Child draw attention to the much-neglected juice of the fish itself. Stew fish in its own court-bouillon and serve the latter, strained, but leaving the whole peppers and perhaps a laurel leaf or two in it, garnishing with slices of lemon. The addition of a little thickening and a little white wine will bring you very close to the sauce au vin blanc.

Let your grilled fish taste of the fire and serve with a pat or two of maitre d'hotel butter, if a bit dry.

Boiled white fish, as most good cooks know, are improved in colour by rubbing with lemon before boiling.

Above all things eschew partes of fish or shellfish : they are hateful, and, I think, indigestible to boot.

Many kinds of fish can be dressed au gratin in the oven. When you are tired of sole, take a good-sized whiting, remove the bones, then a little butter and a squeeze of lemon and a sprinkling of chopped mushrooms and chives will produce a capital result. Cover your fish with buttered paper.

Gold trout and other fish are excellent with a sauce of oil, salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. Finely-chopped chives, too, are a grateful addition to this sauce.